Evan Rail

Tsunami, and a Tsunami

March 18, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Last month’s earthquake in Chile brought up warnings of a tsunami, once again, bringing to mind the terrible Indian Ocean earthquake of December 26, 2004. But it also reminded me of a very different tsunami that I’d almost forgotten: a chapbook of poems I published under that title just two weeks before the Boxing Day tsunami. It was, in the words of the one review it received, an unfortunate coincidence, to say the least.

For a long time, poetry was all I really cared about, though it didn’t begin that way: I started writing poems as a way to sharpen my skills for my goals of writing fiction and reportage. It was a kind of cross-training — sure, I could tell a good story in 2,000 words, but could I do it in 38 words? Could I do it in iambic pentameter? Tetrameter? Rhymed? Slant-rhymed?

After a while, though, I began to write poems for the sake of writing poems. The first were published in small magazines while I was in a grad program for French literature in Paris, where I worked on translations as part of my coursework at the Sorbonne Nouvelle. After a few years, however — after I had moved to Prague and begun writing my own stuff just as hard as I could — they began to appear in better magazines. Seven were in the Times Literary Supplement in London. One was in the New Republic. Somebody found that piece and recorded a space-music song with the same title. He even sent me a CD.

So after a few years, I had enough poems for a book, which was put out in a 22-page, 200-copy edition by my friends at Metre Editions in Ireland. The book was distributed at bookshops in Dublin and Prague, and was even listed on Amazon.com in the US for a while. I left a few copies on commission at a bookstore in Sarajevo while I was there for a poetry festival in 2005. Now it seems to have disappeared into the aether, though I was pleased to see it listed in the National Library of Australia.

The book received only one review that I know of, from Stephen Knight in the Times Literary Supplement five years ago on March 18, 2005. Since no one saw that review back then — since I was not on Facebook and certainly wasn’t blogging at the time — I’ll post it here to give the earlier, much smaller Tsunami its due.

Evan Rail, Tsunami. Dublin: Metre.

Skewering his subjects for their intemperance in “Remembering the Swiss”, a sonnet after Joachim du Bellay, Evan Rail is not above indulging himself, most effectively in “and Counting”, its epigraph from Apollinaire’s Alcools and its enjoyable swagger announcing a voice that brims with certainty even as its speaker careers through the streets:

In the sulphur-yellow, anti-violent streetlights
by ball-footed scissor-steps unbound
I am kite-high upon the pavement flying.

Fortunately, Rail’s humour survives his drink-fuelled delusions of omnipotence. “I give off light”, he continues, “by which librarians could reshelf and file”, and he is as much at home the pages of books as out in the world. Occasionally, the two meet: the Seine “spells out /the word for love in Old French”, and blood “curls up like the letters / of an illustrated manuscript”.

A pamphlet of twelve poems , Tsunami opens with “Passport Control” and closes with “Travelling Song”, its final sentence, “I will never be home again”, celebrating its author’s footloose existence. An American-born linguist, Evan Rail studied in France and now lives in Prague. This might have resulted in low-pressure anecdotes of life on the road, but, hearteningly, Rail’s peripatetic biography is instead reflected in a poetry that contemplates borders and the slipperiness of language. Drift – cosmonauts in orbit, regarding “the distance and difference // between us and the world, this measured space”, or the “measured space between the names for things / and things themselves” – is relished. “In Praise of a False Cognate” considers Gift, the German word for poison, while “from Wanderings in Czech” finds the words for ice cream (zmrzlina) and mademoiselle (slecno) insufficiently mimetic. Witty, deftly rhymed and elegantly shaped, this poetry displays a New World confidence having serious fun in Europe.

The unfortunate coincidence of its title notwithstanding, Tsunami is a poised debut. Full of fruitful dislocations, it is a challenge to anyone who believes that a vibrant poetry can only emerge from rootedness. The marriage of gusto and attentiveness in these poems tells a different story.

Stephen Knight

→ Leave a CommentCategories: Uncategorized

Czech Menu Disaster: Homophobic Chicken Soup

October 6, 2009 · Leave a Comment

forget-the-chicken

English-language menus in the Czech Republic are often quite confusing, filled with unfortunate word choices and mistranslations. This strangely named soup from the great Café Savoy is a fave.

For the record, it’s supposed to be chicken soup with liver dumplings.

I had the carrot soup instead.

→ Leave a CommentCategories: Prague · Travel

Zeha Berlin

March 10, 2009 · Leave a Comment

zeha2

Last weekend I had a short “Foraging” piece in the NYT about Zeha Berlin, a brand of shoes which were popular in the German Democratic Republic. Wacky yet cool, modern Zehas are where global sneaker culture meets Ostalgie, the nostalgia for Communist stuff in Germany and the former Soviet bloc countries of central and eastern Europe.

This is the kind of article where you can type as much as you want, but it’s the pictures that tell the story. Only one of my photos ran with the piece in the online version, so I’m posting a couple of leftovers here to show you what you’re missing.

Keep reading →

→ Leave a CommentCategories: Travel
Tagged: ,

Spiš Castle in Slovakia

March 5, 2009 · Leave a Comment

slovakia

My current Twitter background image: a shot from our trip to Spiš Castle in Slovakia. I’m probably part of the problem, but it often seems like the Czech Republic gets too much attention, especially when compared to the country’s former federal partner. In terms of travel and food and drink, Slovakia has great untold stories everywhere from Bratislava to Snina. And in terms of budget travel, beautiful rural Slovakia can make rural Moravia look overpriced.

→ Leave a CommentCategories: Travel
Tagged:

On In-Flight Magazines, Hack Journalism and Not Flying SkyEurope

February 7, 2009 · Leave a Comment

clouds

I’ve flown with SkyEurope Airlines on three travel assignments: first down to Dubrovnik in 2006, then back again to Dubrovnik for another story in 2007, then over to Brussels in 2008. Of all the airlines flying out of Prague, I chose SkyEurope primarily because they were traveling to my destinations at times that were convenient. Second, I appreciated the prices: the first time my wife and I went to Dubrovnik, we paid the equivalent of $95 for each round-trip ticket. And third, I liked the Boeing 737s, which I prefer to Airbus A320s for no reason I can state here.

Although I enjoyed those flights, I’m not sure if I’ll be booking any new tickets with SkyEurope, as the grapevine is rife with stories about canceled flights and canceled routes. Petr Bokůvka reports that the airline is now down to its last four aircraft. Some of the shiny 737s have been replaced with older, loaner MD-83s.

Even more ominous, at least from a travel writer’s point of view: SkyEurope’s in-flight magazine just included an outdated travel feature that sent travelers to a bar that had closed some 18 months earlier.

Keep reading →

→ Leave a CommentCategories: Prague
Tagged:

Prague’s New Buddha Bar and Siddharta Café

January 28, 2009 · Leave a Comment

siddharta_cafe_prague_dj

A confession: I’m crazy about hamburgers and classic sandos. Back home — by which I mean the USA — I generally avoided diner food, usually seeking out Ethiopian, Cambodian or even (God forbid) central European cuisine instead.

But a decade of living out of the country can change you. Now I have a club sandwich just about as often as I can. And if a Michelin-starred restaurant sees fit to list a burger on the menu, I’m probably going to take it out for a spin.

So when I saw that Prague’s new Siddharta Café offered a club sandwich, lunch was settled.

Siddharta Café is part of the new Buddha Bar complex in Old Town, home to the tenth Buddha Bar — in the sense of a bar and restaurant — in the world. More importantly, it’s also the very first Buddha Bar Hotel, luxury lodgings with the same pan-Asian decorative exoticism as the bar chain. I’ll be writing about the hotel later. For now, after taking a brief tour, I can tell you that it is an extremely stylish place. “Sexy” may be overused as a descriptor for boutique hotels, but the place does have a highly charged, palpably lascivious atmosphere.

Meaning yes. If you stay here, you will get laid.

Keep reading →

→ Leave a CommentCategories: Prague
Tagged: ,

My 2008 Annual Report

January 21, 2009 · Comments Off

italia

Looking back often helps to clarify where you’re heading as well as where you’ve been. To that end, I’ve put together this brief overview of my working life for the year 2008.

Evan Rail’s 2008 Annual Report contains forward-looking statements that are based on management’s expectations, estimates, projections and assumptions. These statements are not guarantees of future performance and may involve risks and uncertainties which are difficult to predict. Past performance does not guarantee future results.
Keep reading →

Comments OffCategories: annual reports

Romania

January 12, 2009 · Comments Off

Bucharest

I loved last weekend’s Saturday Night Live parody of the “Whopper Virgins” commercial (available at Eat Me Daily, perhaps funniest after reviewing the over-earnest original). I liked it in particular because it was so timely: I’m just now corresponding with photographer Davin Ellicson about us possibly teaming up for a story about rural Romania, exactly where the commercials are set, a place where people still wear traditional costumes and you can easily find “eastern European farmers who have never eaten a burger.”

My own experience is that most people in Bucharest seem to have eaten (and enjoyed) a Big Mac; the sprawling outdoor seating area of the McDonald’s on Piaţa Romană seems to be the city’s most popular hangout for teenagers. But outside the capital, you’ll quickly find plenty of the images Western Europe lost track of ages ago: itinerant Romany families seated around the ox-carts in which they live; folks in local costumes; traveling shepherds with their flocks. And despite joining the EU just over two years ago, Bucharest still often looks as timelessly Old World (and burger-free) as in the snapshot above.

Comments OffCategories: Uncategorized